Tasting Rome: Gricia, the Ancestor of Amatriciana

There’s a distinct aroma that fills the air in Rome at lunchtime: guanciale sizzling in the pan, its fat melting and releasing that unmistakable fragrance. It’s the call of Rome’s traditional cuisine, and among its most iconic dishes is gricia, lesser-known than amatriciana, but older and just as delicious.

Where it all began: shepherds, cheese and history
Pasta alla gricia predates the use of tomatoes in Roman cooking. It’s said to have originated among Lazio’s shepherds, who carried aged guanciale, pecorino cheese, and dry pasta during their long migrations.

Its name may derive from Grisciano, near Amatrice, or from the “grici,” food vendors from the Austro-Hungarian regions. Either way, gricia is a cornerstone of Rome’s comfort food, embodying simplicity and deep, satisfying flavor.

The taste of true Rome
Picture a steaming plate of rigatoni alla gricia served in a quiet trattoria in Trastevere or Testaccio: the pasta coated in creamy cheese, crispy guanciale cubes glistening on top. Each bite tastes like the city itself — bold, rustic, and full of character.

Where to eat it
You'll find excellent versions across Rome: from Armando al Pantheon to Da Teo, or the ever-popular Tonnarello. A good gricia is judged by its crispy guanciale, abundant pecorino, and perfect al dente pasta.

The mother of Roman sauces
Gricia is the base of amatriciana — add tomato, and the transformation is complete. Remove the guanciale, and you get cacio e pepe. Three legendary Roman sauces with one shared soul.

If you’re curious, read our article on The ancient roots of traditional Roman cuisine to explore the roots of Roman pasta.

Rome, one bite at a time
Rome is not just seen — it’s smelled, tasted, and heard. And gricia is one of the most flavorful stops along the way. Want to explore more? Try Roman-style tripe, a dive into old-school cuisine , and continue your journey through the city’s most authentic kitchens.